Skip Munich This Summer — Tokyo's Fireworks Season Is the Better Bet

Everyone tells you to visit Japan in spring for the cherry blossoms or autumn for the maples. Almost nobody mentions summer, which is a shame, because Tokyo in late July and August is when the city genuinely lets its hair down. The heat is real — sticky, cicada-loud, sweat-through-your-shirt real — but that's exactly the point. Matsuri season only makes sense in that humidity.

The main event: Sumida River Fireworks

The Sumida River Fireworks Festival on 25 July 2026 is the big one, and it's older than almost any fireworks display you've seen. It traces back to the 1730s, and roughly a million people turn out for it. Two competing pyrotechnic teams fire nearly 20,000 shells over the river between Asakusa and Mukojima, with Tokyo Skytree glowing in the background.

A few honest words of warning: it is packed. The riverbanks fill hours ahead, and the crowds are genuinely intense. If you want the classic view without being crushed, don't fight for the water's edge.

• Arrive by early afternoon and claim a spot on the grass near Sumida Park.
• Consider a rooftop bar or a booked restaurant with river views — worth the premium.
• Skip Asakusa station straight after the finale; walk 15 minutes to a quieter stop instead of queuing shoulder-to-shoulder.

Dress the part

Half the fun is the yukata — the light summer kimono everyone wears. This isn't a costume-for-tourists gimmick; locals of all ages wear them. You can rent one for the day near Asakusa for a reasonable price, and wandering the festival in one changes the whole experience. Wooden geta sandals will destroy your feet by hour three, so break them in or bring a backup.

It's not just one night

The beauty of visiting in this window is that Sumida is just the opening act. The whole season runs through late August:

• Fireworks (hanabi) happen almost weekly somewhere in the Kanto region — Jingu Gaien in mid-August is closer to central Tokyo and slightly less overwhelming.
• Obon, in mid-August, brings bon odori dances to neighbourhood parks and shrines. Anyone can join the circle; nobody expects you to know the steps.
• Food stalls are the real reason to show up hungry: yakisoba, grilled sweetcorn slicked with soy, shaved ice (kakigori) in electric colours, chocolate-dipped bananas.

Practical honesty

August is peak domestic travel and prices rise, so book flights and a hotel well ahead — a place on the Ginza or Asakusa side of the river saves you painful late-night transit. Pack for genuine heat and afternoon downpours both. And build in early mornings: temples like Senso-ji are magical and near-empty at 7am, before the day turns into a furnace.

Munich's beer halls will still be there next year. This is the summer to trade them for a riverbank, a paper fan, and a sky full of fire.